Samoa

Samoa

Day 1

Arrived on Polynesian Airlines at 11.30pm. A small band welcomed us with ukuleles, guitars and beautiful happy singing.

Day 2

We decided to walk to Maketi Fou which is the main central market next to the bus station and sells all kinds of fruit and vegetables. Fat smiling ladies sat at low tables covered with tomatoes, egg plant, bok choy, bread fruit and herbs. Music came from all directions - a lovely, happy place.

From here we walked along Main Beach Road. Big colorful buses flew past us with funny names painted on their side like Princess Nora and Queen Maggie. Past the Clock Tower we stopped for a coke at Sails Restaurant.

From Sails we walked to Aggie Grey’s Hotel further around the waters edge. Aggie’s is classed as one of the ‘Most Famous Hotels in the World’ and named after the daughter of an English immigrant and a Samoan woman. She started the hotel in the 1940’s and it’s now an upmarket, high class place. Crossing the bridge over the Vaisigano River, we found the Pasefika Inn which I fell in love with.

From here we caught a taxi to Seipepa Fales - off the road, a narrow dirt track led past a few village houses and fales to an overgrown gateway. Chickens were running around and the usual dogs and cats lying about. About ten cute fales are scattered among the shrubs and palms and we booked in for the next day.

From here we caught a taxi out on the main road to take us back to Pasefika Inn. Ben was our driver and we struck up a friendship with him from the start. We decided to have lunch and then get him to take us out to Papasee’a Sliding Rock.

At one o’clock Ben was waiting at the door. Because we were a bit late he decided we we’d been having ‘jiggy jiggy’.

Papasee’a is only fifteen minutes out of Apia through pretty villages and green, green countryside. Ben happily continued on with the jiggy jiggy thing and told us that his wife only ever wants to make love in the morning. All this is described with raucous laughter so it was a fun trip to the Rock. Two hundred steps down to the waterfall we find rock pools and the main rock. This is a five metre slide from the top of a waterfall into a small deep pool at the bottom – a thrilling ride.

Before dinner we set off for Aggie Grey’s for Happy Hour cocktails - strawberry daiquiris at the Kionasina Bar – then onto Sails Restaurant. Here we orderede the very expensive seafood platter while sitting on the balcony overlooking the port. The air was still and warm as we ate by candlelight – very romantic.

Day 3

At 6.30am we woke to another gorgeous day. From our bed we could see the sun rising above the palm trees through the glass slats of our window. Smoke hung in the still air as people prepared for their Sunday umu.

At 9.30 we walk to the Presbyterian Church near Aggie Grey’s. Inside was packed with locals who looked trapped in another century. Most of the ladies were in white and all wearing straw hats and fanning themselves with woven hand fans. Even the minister was dressed in a white suit and a red tie – a big enthusiastic man with stacks of charisma The best part, though, was the choir - sung in the Samoan language, - incredibly beautiful.

Later we snorkelled at Palalo Deep Marine Reserve. We swam out across the shallows of the reef till the bottom dropped away into a deep blue hole filled with fish and purple and orange coral. We saw schools of fish in the most amazing colours like luminous yellow and electric blue. After half an hour we laid around near the shore floating in the warm shallows.

Back at Seipepa we settled into our fale. It was on tall stilts so that we felt like we were living in a beautiful tree house surrounded by thick gardens - below us were two family graves.

Day 4

Another gorgeous morning and the roosters were still crowing as they had all night. After cold showers we had breakfast in the grandparent’s house. We sat cross legged for a breakfast of bread, hard boiled eggs, coconut, pawpaw and tomato .

At 9.30am a taxi took us to the bus station near the Flea Market. We asked someone which was the bus to Lalomanu. The one that was there was apparently the two o’clock bus and the ten o’clock bus would come later (what the?).

The ten o’clock Lalomanu bus arrived but already looks full to bursting. Finally here it comes in all its bright yellow and pink glory with music blaring and overflowing with passengers. We squashed in with everyone happily nursing someone else.

After we crossed the mountainous interior we arrived at Tafua Fales on the edge of Lalomanu village. We’re met by Tai and Sili, a husband and wife team who own Tafua. They’re both larger than life in dimensions and personality. They give us the rundown on meals and snorkeling then show us to our fale right on the sand facing the water – a million dollar view of calm blue water, white sand and palm trees.

After lunch of fresh fish and salad, we snorkeled, swam, slept then sat on the café verandah for sunset drinks. . Dinner is at a long communal table decorated with fresh flowers. Samoan music is playing which is nice except it’s the same CD over and over – maybe they only have one.

Drift off to sleep to the sound of the surf out on the reef and the tiniest of waves on the shore.

Day 5

Spent the morning snorkeling again then wandered around to Lalomanu village in the afternnoon. A fantastic tropical feast for dinner then bed at ten o’clock ready for an early start in the morning.

Day 6

At 6.30am we wait out on the road for the bus back to Apia.I sit on Mark’s knee and most people are nursing someone else. After two hours the sun is out and we’re back in Apia. We ring Leota , the owner of Sunset View Fales on Manono Island. He promised to send a boat to pick us up.

A taxi driver called Bati drove us to the ferry wharf at the west end of the island.The boat is actually a small launch and we have a driver, the driver’s friend and another man. The weather is perfect now The water is a brilliant aqua blue and very calm. Sunset View Fales around the south western side of the island.

From the water we can see Leota waiting for us at the end of the jetty. He’s a big smiling man with graying hair and kind eyes. He’s wearing a bright blue shirt covered in palm tress and a brown lavalava. Behind him is a yellow and blue painted fale with tiny thatched fales on either side. He helps us off the boat then takes us to sit in his fale. We’re the only guests so apparently there’s no rush but after a while he shows us to our fale

After a read on the bed we meet Leota at the boat. The boat is very basic and the snorkeling gear consists of one snorkel and goggles, one pair of swimming goggles and one pair of flippers that don’t fit either of us. We set off for the eastern side of Manono Island where we can see the small volcanic Apolima Island and the large island of Savai’i in the distance behind it. Leota steers us towards the reef then makes anchor for us to climb overboard.

Before dinner, we have cold showers in the little wooden shack out the back. Leota’s wife, Sau, and her sister are cooking in the kitchen. I ask if I can help but they scream laughing at the thought of it.

Meanwhile Sili has brought out his guitar and a ukulele made from a tin can and a piece of wood. He sings sweet Samoan songs then all have dinner tohether.

Day 7

Manono Island has no dogs or vehicles of any kind (not even bicycles) so the only sound we can hear is the soft lapping of the water almost beneath us. At 7.30am, Sau makes us breakfast

We set off at eight o’clock going clockwise around the island. We see family graves, churches, beautiful white sandy coves and picture perfect fales that everyone here lives in. The island is apparently semi-subsistence and probably as close as you could get to basic Polynesian life.

Back at Sunset View, we boarded the launch to take us back to ‘Upolu where we caught the car ferry to the island of Savai’i. Another wonderful local bus ride took us up the coast to Tanu Fales where we chose another fale on the beach.

We watched a tattooist giving a young guy an armband tattoo. He dipped a metal comb with needle-sharp teeth and a pig’s tusk in a bowl of ink then tapped it into his skin.

That night we watched a traditional fiafia dance – it’s a mixture of joyous dancing and singing accompanied by traditional instruments.

The loveliest part was the slow sensual siva dance – beautiful hand movements and slow shuffling feet. Wonderful Samoan music engulfed us all - so magical – I thought my heart would burst.

Day 8

We woke at 7.30am to another gorgeous sunny day.

After breakfast we walked along the beach with our packs on till we come to Jane’s Fales shaded by coconut palms.

Day 9

Hot and sunny again. Got a bus back down the coast to the lovely Safua Hotel set in lush flowering gardens. It’s owned by Moelagi Jackson, the apparent ‘queen of Savai’i’.

At lunch we met Warren Jopling. He’s seventy five, Australian and has lived here at Safua for the last thirteen years. Once a geologist, he organized to take us on an island tour tomorrow – excellent!

Had dinner with Warren and Moelagi.

Day 10

This morning we woke early as today is Sunday and ‘umu’ day. We watched Moelagi’s son do all the preparation which took hours - taro, coconut, pork, fish and vegetables all cooked on hot stones.

After lunch we spent the rest of the day touring the island with Warren – waterfalls, family homes, the Alafaaga Blowholes and churches. A banquet dinner with Warren and Moelagi then her brother and four young men sang and played for us. They had two guitars, spoons, a piece of wood hit with a rock, a wooden pole with a long string attached to it and the bongos.

Finally bed at 9.30pm – an amazing day.

Sabah, Borneo

Sabah, Borneo

Day 1 Kota Kinabalu

Arrived in Kota Kinabalu in Sabah! We hung out at the local markets then booked bus tickets to Poring Springs. We had an early night after splurging on dinner and cocktails – roughed it from here on.

Day 2 Kota Kinabalu to Poring Springs

Up at 7am and in a taxi to the bus station. Then under beautiful blue skies we pulled out at 7.30am and headed north towards Mount Kinabalu. We passed a huge mosque out of town and then open countryside with a few small villages now and again.

For an hour the road twisted and climbed towards Mount Kinabalu which we could see looming in the distance. It’s the highest mountain in South East Asia and to climb it is one of Sabah’s attractions. Frankly I’d rather stick pins in my eyes, give birth to a chair, eat my own arse off etc. So while others jumped off at the turnoff to the mountain, Mark and I smugly sailed past sitting on our lazy arses. The road continued to wind and twist which made Mark sick – he’s never good on mountainous roads.

After three hours we finally arrived at Ranau which is the closest town to Poring Springs. We were the only ones to get off and had no idea where to go. From the highway we walked into town where we met a young guy who rang his brother at Poring Springs to come and get us. After half an hour he arrived in an old van and we headed out of town past a busy, colourful market down on the riverbank.

The nineteen kilometers to Poring Springs was lovely - lush and green. Half an hour later we arrived at the tiny village opposite the national park. Leaving our backpacks at the gate we couldn’t wait to see the springs.

Getting there was just gorgeous – across a bridge over a fast running stream then a walk through the rainforest. There are about six different ponds, some hot and sulphurous natural springs and others cold water. The setting is very pretty especially with the Rainforest Cafe set amongst the trees.

One of the must-do things in the park is the ‘canopy walk’. It’s much further than it looks on the map and it was a long strenuous walk halfway up a bloody mountain. Three long walkways are suspended from the trees way, way above the jungle floor. The whole thing sways and creaks and even though I hate heights I was determined to do it. I was glad to see a lot of other terrified faces though.

At last at the bottom we ordered food and drinks at the Rainforest Café then decided to look for somewhere to stay. Just across from the park gate was a small shack-like house with a room attached. The house belongs to Jonah and his family while the room next is called Ernah Lodge on a hand painted sign at the front. We asked at the café next door and someone ran off to find Jonah. He’s a friendly little man and very excited about renting the room. He proudly showed us inside and we were surprised to find that we had two bedrooms, a tiny bathroom lined with corrugated iron and a cement floor as well as a small sitting room with a tiny lounge, tables and chairs and a television. The furnishings were basic bits and pieces and we loved it.

Also attached to the Lodge is a small massage room where Jonah’s wife works. He became excited again when we told him we’d both like a massage – they obviously don’t do too much business. Mark had a massage first then we had a swim back over in the park in the pretty, coldwater pool – so nice to cool down from the heat and humidity which had kept us wet with sweat all day.

Back outside the park everyone was calling out ‘happy new year’ – a big thing here apparently. In one of the market stalls we noticed hundreds of handmade ornaments of the Rafflesia flower. This is supposedly the biggest flower in the world and only flowers for a few days a year. I asked the stall lady about it and she said “you want to see?”. Incredibly it was in flower now and she ran off to find someone to take us there. In minutes the tiniest lady imaginable led us up the road to the top of the hill. She was barefoot and looked eighty but we could barely keep up with her. Around a bend she took us to a family sitting in a grass and bamboo shelter and handed us over to a little boy who took us into the forest. Up and down muddy tracks, across a tiny stream we at last came to the Rafflesia deep in the forest. It’s a reddy brown colour and about eighteen inches across. This was amazing and we felt very David Attenbouroughish.

On dark we were ready for our New Year’s Eve in Poring Springs. We walked over to the Rainforest Café in the park where we’d booked a table for dinner. We shouldn’t have bothered as we were the only ones there except for a table of European scientists who ate and ran. A tiny bat did laps of the café and we could hear forest noises all around us – beautiful!

At 9.30pm we headed back to the Lodge while the locals called out ‘happy New Year’ and a group of teenage boys in a ute drove up and down the street – great excitement in Poring Springs. I couldn’t keep awake till midnight but Mark stayed up to see in the New Year – Happy New Year, my darling!

Day 2 Poring Springs to Sepilok

New Years Day. At 8am we had breakfast back at the Rainforest Café then, after a swim, set off with Jonah and his wife for Ranau. The bus arrived at 9.50am and we were soon speeding east.

After three hours we arrived at Sepilok. Again we were dropped off on the highway and again we weren’t sure where to go. A track off the road had a few cars with touts waiting so we crossed over to get a lift to the hotels. There are only a couple of places to stay and we quickly decided on the Jungle Resort. It’s an inexpensive place in a beautiful jungle setting and built around large ponds.

For lunch we hung out in the Banana Café at a table next to the pond. The gardens around the pond have flowering plants and huge fan shaped palms. At the desk we booked a Guided Night Jungle Walk inside the Orangutan Centre. By then thick clouds had come over and the rain was pouring down like only tropical rain can do. It was quite lovely really and a good excuse to have an afternoon nap.

At 7pm we were ready for our jungle walk. The rain had stopped and, in pitch darkness, we followed a young girl along a muddy track. At the Centre we met the ranger who asked us ‘you have torches?’ Of course we didn’t because no-one told us to bring one. This meant we had one torch between the three of us – brilliant.

For the next hour we very slowly walked through the forest while our poor guide tried to find anything even mildly interesting. In total we saw two millipedes, one bird and a snake curled up asleep in a tree – a bit of a letdown but a nice experience anyway.

Day 3 Sepilok

We woke at 8am for showers and breakfast at the Banana Café. I kept seeing an interesting looking old lady who always seemed to have people come up to talk to her and decided to get to know her before we leave.

Then it was time for the orangutans! After breakfast we walked over to the Orangutan Centre where we followed a crowd up and down long wooden walkways till we reached the feeding platform about ten minutes later. While we waited for the orangutans to appear, lots of small monkeys and a bigger pig-faced monkey turned up to pinch some of the free food. The feeder eventually climbed the platform with a bucket of bananas and sugar cane. The excitement built and everyone had their eyes fixed on the jungle.

Soon we could see some branches moving and then they appeared. It’s an incredible sight. About fifteen orangutans turned up for the feeding. No-one scrambled for food – all very orderly really. They all arrived by swinging along ropes set up in the trees and attached to the platform. The humidity in the jungle must be about one hundred and fifty percent – so bad that the inside of our camera fogged up and my hair looked like I just had a perm.

At three o’clock we went back for the afternoon feeding. Although the sun was shining again after a short downpour, the humidity was so much worse. The feeding platform and jungle around was almost hidden by the steam.

At six o’clock we were back at the Banana Café for drinks and dinner. I spied the old lady again and made plans to have breakfast with her the next morning. Her name is Francine Neago, and she said in a very French accent ‘you want to talk about orangutans?”

Day 4 Sepilok to Sandakan

At 8am we met Francine in the café. We talked for an hour and found she’s one of the most interesting people we’ve ever met. I don’t know exactly how old she is but she looks at least eighty (sorry Francine if you’re younger). She’s a scientist trying to set up a school here to teach people about orangutans and about their survival. She told us about the corruption at the Orangutan Centre and how there soon won’t be enough primary jungle left for the orangutans because the government is destroying it to plant palm oil trees. Soon there will only be secondary forest left and even that might be under threat. She’s an expert on orangutans and has even taught one to ‘speak’ using a computer in the USA. Once she lived in a cage with orangutans for six months so she could study them and when she lived in Sumatra she had a full grown pet alligator that lived under her kitchen table. Actually she’s definitely the most interesting person we’ve ever met!

After breakfast we left Sepilok for a few days in Sandakan before flying back to Kuala Lumpur for the next part of our Malaysia trip.