Thailand Hilltribe Trek

Thailand Hilltribe Trek

Day 1 Bangkok to Chiang Mai

Yesterday we caught the overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (13 hours) where we planned to head further northwest to visit some of Thailand’s amazing hilltribe villages. I slept badly on the top bunk (kept thinking I was going to fall out) and Mark didn't sleep at all on the bottom bunk (too big for the bed).

Day 2 Chiang Mai to Tham Lod village

At 7am we pulled into Chiang Mai’s train station then threw our backpacks into a local songthaew and drove to the bus station where we jumped on a local bus headed for Sappong. It had narrow seats and only fan-cooled but this was better than air-conditioning as we later needed the open windows for other purposes. Deafening Thai music entertained us the whole way. The bus was full of Thais and hilltribe people and the road was unbelievably steep and winding for four and a half hours.

After two hours we arrived at the small town of Pai then set off again for Sappong. The bus was now packed with hilltribe people in traditional dress and we needed to share seats. As soon as we started around the mountains again everyone was vomiting into plastic bags. Spew bags were flying past us out of the open windows and exploding on the road - wonderful!

At Sappong we were met by the women of the Lisu hilltribe in traditional dress of black, pink and yellow. They’d all been chewing beetle-nut and gave us huge red toothed smiles.

Another songthaew took us to Cave Lodge which is incredibly rustic with lots of cushions, low tables and woven wall hangings. It’s open on three sides and looks over a small valley overgrown with bamboo and bougainvillea. Mark and I had our own grass hut but shared cold showers and squat toilets.

After settling in we walked to Tham Lod Caves full of stalagmites and stalactites, ancient coffins, prehistoric paintings, steep bamboo ladders and bats. Three Thai ladies carrying old kerosene lanterns guided us through the caves - a wonderful atmosphere. After an hour of climbing we were led down to a stream deep within one of the caves. Here we jumped onto bamboo rafts till we came out at last through the huge mouth of the cave to the lovely greenery outside - a great adventure!

Day 3 First Day of Trek

The sun woke us early and after cold showers we sat on the verandah of our hut. So lovely sitting in the sun looking over the jungle of bamboo before us.

Now the trek. Carrying daypacks and all our water, we met Miss Doi, our guide, then set off at 9am. We walked next to a lovely stream where water buffalo were drinking and pigs were running past. We'd picked up two other guides by now - Puck and Charlie. The walking wasn't steep at first but we crossed the river about twenty times during the day. The pace was fast and it was unbelievably hot by now. Glad that we stopped every hour for a break or to lie fully clothed in the river - boots and all.

Lunch was rice wrapped in elephant leaves next to a shady stream. Puck fished with a stick while Doi and Charlie smoked bongs! We kept close to the stream again after lunch until we started the incredibly steep climb to the village. At last we could hear sounds of farm animals and we soon arrived at the Lahu hilltribe village. The huts are built on stilts on the side of a hill so the view was beautiful. There were lots of animals running around and under the huts - pigs, dogs, chooks and roosters.

At dusk we walked to the top of the village and watched the women sitting on the floor of their verandahs preparing their evening meals. Later we watched Doi and Puck prepare vegetables for our meal, which they cooked over the open fire. Slept on the hard floor of a family hut.

Day 4 Second Day of Trek

We didn’t sleep well because of all the animal noise. After breakfast we set off through the village. The whole day's walk was up and down steep hills and along narrow ridges - just kept going up and up. We stopped for lunch at the top of a ridge but we were too hot to eat. The guides smoked bongs again and we set off after a rest in the shade. So hot and no rivers today to cool us down. After more ridges we had a steep and slippery descent into a lovely leafy valley. It was worth it, though, as it was green and cool at the bottom and, best of all, there were the elephants! Down among the bamboo they were being watched over by men from the Karen hilltribe, all dressed in their traditional red woven tops. We climbed on and had an incredibly uncomfortable ride sitting in the baskets tied to the elephants' backs - worth every second, though, to think that we were actually riding an elephant in the hills of Thailand!

We came at last to the Karen village. Very beautiful and green with lots of crops growing around the village and fruit trees around the grass huts. Each hut was raised above the ground and each had its own yard closed in by bamboo fences. The Karen people looked beautiful in their red and black embroidered clothing that they weave themselves. The elephant took us right up to the family hut where we spent the night.

After settling in, we walked through the village to the river about twenty minutes away and laid around in the water for an hour - so lovely to be cool and surrounded by huge trees full of vines and lots of bamboo. Back at the hut we bought weavings from the ladies then dinner of vegetables and eggs eaten off a low wooden table in the candlelight.

A bad night - I had to get up three times for urgent toilet visits. This was my worst nightmare. Each time I had to find the torch and toilet paper, pick my way in the dark over sleeping bodies, find my boots under the hut, walk through the mud and 'go' in the horrid pit toilet behind the hut while trying not to make those awful 'toilet noises' - definitely not one of my best moments.

Day 5 Third Day of Trek and Chiang Mai

Woke early again and I wasn't feeling too good so I couldn't eat the porridge Doi had made for breakfast. We left the village early through a pretty river area crossing lots of creeks sometimes by walking across narrow branches but mainly walking straight through the water getting our boots soaked again. After lots of hills and walking through rice paddies, we came at last to a songthaew waiting to take us to Pai. Because I was sick, I sat in the front with Noan and her husband so I could see the road. The hour and a half drive to Pai was okay but when we got there we found that there was no bus running to Chiang Mai. This didn't seem to worry Noan and her husband who now had to drive us all the way to Chiang Mai.

It started to rain about half an hour later and we had to stop and put the canvas sides down. Mark said it was awful in the back because he couldn’t see the road and I felt so sick in the front with Noan kept fussing over me. She was really sweet and kept feeling my forehead and she put a blanket over me. I kept asking her how far it was to Chiang Mai but she would just give a big smile, hold up five fingers and say' Chiang Mai five'. I guess that was all the English she could speak so I just gave up. The five hours felt like ten with the heat, the rain, the winding road, feeling nauseous and on the verge of gastric the whole way - an ‘experience’ to say the least. Ecstatic to finally reach Chiang Mai at six o'clock.

Off south tomorrow and more Thailand adventures, but please no more ‘experiences’.

A Felucca on the Nile - Egypt

Day 1 Aswan

Today we're leaving Aswan on a felucca, one of the traditional, Egyptian boats with canvas sails that we've seen in all the travel brochures. We'll spend three glorious days sailing up the Nile to Luxor stopping at different monuments on the way and sleeping on the boat at night.

Mark and I are up early to have breakfast in the bazaar where we buy a few belly dancing scarves and drink tea with the owner of the stall. It's still early and most stalls are just opening. Through an open doorway we watch breadmakers cooking a'aish until they see us and invite us inside. There's lots of joking and laughing and as we leave they're stuffing warm bread inside Mark's backpack. It's covered in flour which means that the backpack is as well.

We're running late and race back to the hotel to shower and pack. At the river Jay Jay is there to meet us and introduce us to our Nubian boatmen - Dari and Mohammed. They're both gorgeous and so sweet. Our boat has a flat deck about ten feet square with a place about two foot high underneath for our bags. Thick mattresses covered in a colourful cloth cover the whole deck and pillows are lined up all around the sides. There's plenty of room for ten of us all to lie down and Mark and I pick good spots right up the front of the boat. We're very comfortable and it's heaven to lie here with a cloudless blue sky above.

As we pull out at 10.30 we watch beautiful Aswan slide by and then it's date palms, tiny houses and donkeys for the rest of the day. The boat tacks continually against the oncoming breeze so that it takes ages to get very far at all. All day we pass the huge cruise boats heading towards Aswan and feel glad that we're here on our little felucca. We pull in a few times for toilet stops which are always an adventure as we all try to find some privacy. No matter where you go you're always sure that someone, somewhere is getting an eyeful of your bare arse.

At one place we decide to find firewood for tonight. Mark and the other guys have a wonderful time doing the male thing of dragging dead branches off trees and even dismantling an old shed. Lunch happens on the go and Dari sails while Mohammed gets the food ready. They spread out an old plastic cloth and put the dishes in the centre while we all help ourselves. It's one of my favourite meals - tuna, pocket bread, tomato and fetta cheese followed by fruit and tea.

All afternoon we float slowly down the Nile while we listen to old Bob Marley tapes - so fitting and so perfect. It seems universal that the coolest places on earth still play Bob Marley. His music recalls nights in dark bars in Kathmandu, at beach bars in Bali and now a felucca cruise on the Nile.

As dark falls about six o'clock, Mark has a turn on the rudder. He looks wonderful with a gorgeous sunset over the water behind him. He loves this and it lets Dari and Mohammed get the food ready for tea. Dinner is a stewy thing of chopped sausages, tomatoes and onions with bread and is just as good as lunch. Afterwards Mark helps put the canvas roof and sides on the boat and we all put the toilet together on the bank. This involves digging a deep hole and putting up a canvas screen all around. Every time we get back on board, we have to wash our hands in disinfectant whether we've been to the loo or not. Glad to see very strict cleanliness rules on the boat and the guys keep it immaculate at all times.

After dinner we all start drinking. It's quite cool as the sun goes down but we feel very snug inside our canvas shelter. Some sit around the fire on the bank and some of us just lay around inside. We're incredibly cosy and warm under a mountain of blankets and all sleep surprisingly well.

Day 2 The Nile (on feluccas)

Mark and I wake before the others at seven o'clock, and after toilet visits and cleaning our teeth, we sit on the bank of the river. I make myself more presentable with a bit of makeup and combed hair. No need to look glamorous but also no need to look like a hag. Gradually the rest of the crew wakes and Mohammed and Dari take down the sides before starting breakfast. This morning we have pancakes, bananas, rolls, jam and cheese.

Anyway, glad to set sail early. It's warmer on the river today and we spend a few pleasant hours making our way north. Later we stop on the east bank where a jeep is waiting to take us to Daraw and the local camel market. At Daraw village we get out at the busy outdoor marketplace. This is thriving and reminds us of India. We dodge donkey-drawn carts laden with vegetables and people riding bareback on donkeys. Mark and I buy a big bag of strawberries to share while we pick up lots of other fresh vegies for the boat. I get the best buy of the trip from a pretty young girl who sells me a brown and cream rug for 22EP. A further ten minutes drive takes us to the camel market. Although there's still lots of camels in pens, the selling is over for the day.

Instead of driving back to the felucca, we drive for about an hour north to the town of Kom Ombo. Here we'll pick up the boat after visiting the famous Temple of Kom Ombo. The temple sits impressively on a bend on the east bank of the Nile where it looks out over the waters. It has an interesting hypostyle hall and some mummified crocodiles.

Outside we walk along the river to where the felucca is moored up to a grassy bank about a kilometre away. Mark and I stop at two cafes to use the toilets but they're unbelievably filthy. None of them flush but have obviously still been used for more than just number ones, if you get the picture. Think we'll hold on.

While we wait for everyone to get back to the boat, some kids wade out to try to sell us the inevitable beaded necklaces and bracelets. Incredible how cheap they'll go down to when you don't want them. The sun is hot by now so it's good to get back out into the middle of the river where we can catch the breeze. Lunch today is spaghetti, a tomato and onion dish, pita bread and oranges.

There's untold donkeys around here and one is going ape-shit try to rape all the girl donkeys. A guy is chasing it with a stick and screaming his head off while the donkey is running in circles and screaming it's head off - hilarious. The rest of the afternoon is spent reading and snoozing as we sail on towards Luxor. On dusk we stop to collect firewood then sail for an hour after the sun has set. This is incredibly beautiful and peaceful and my favourite part of the boat trip so far.

Setting up for the night is quicker today as Mark and the other guys help Dari tie up the sails and put the roof and sides on. The toilet is erected on the bank while Mohammed cooks dinner - vegetable soup, vegetable stew, bread and more oranges. Tonight we drink lots of alcohol and lie around telling conundrums for hours. A really good day rounded off with a great evening. Another warm, comfortable night on board.

Day 3 Nile to Edfu to Luxor

Like yesterday, Mark and I are the first to wake up and we enjoy a peaceful hour sitting on the bank. Lots of agriculture around here and, of course, lots of donkeys. Mark says 'there's a line-up at the dunny' and there's three of them checking it out. Mohammed has lathered up for a wash on the grass and he's covered in white suds from head to toe. Dari is cleaning the boat as usual and by eight o'clock everyone is up and ready to go. Breakfast is cooked while we slowly tack to the opposite bank. Mark takes the rudder and, I know, would love to be there all day. I think he's had enough relaxing and we both can't wait to get to Luxor this afternoon. This morning we have pancakes again with eggs, bread, bananas and oranges. Every meal has been just right.

Today is warm and not much breeze so it's nice out on the river. After a couple of hours, we pull into the west bank where we say a final goodbye to Dari and Mohammed and our felucca. It's been a memorable few days and we're so glad we opted to travel down the Nile this traditional way.

We've stopped at the edge of a small village and a van is waiting to take us to Edfu. A nearby open-air ahwa looks wonderful and the men are smiling and all want their photos taken - no baksheesh either. I like it here and wish we could stay. For the next hour an a half we drive through lush, palm-filled villages along the Nile then scorched, barren land further inland. We love it all.

At Edfu we drive straight to the wonderfully preserved Temple of Horus. Outside is a tourist bazaar but we don't have time to hang out here as we have to leave in a convoy at 11.30am. The temple was built over a period of two hundred years and finally completed in 57BC by Cleopatra's father, Ptolemy XII. The entrance though the thirty-six metre high pylons is especially impressive and inside are two hypostyle halls, an offering chamber and the great court. We feel dwarfed by the massive columns in the hypostyle halls which I think are the most stunning parts of all the Egyptian temples.

It's time to go and we set off in a convoy of about half a dozen buses and vans. For security reasons, tourists aren't allowed to go wandering around out here on their own so police escorts lead convoys across the desert each day. It's another interesting hour and a half to the town of Luxor which sits on the East Bank of the Nile. Once the ancient city of Thebes, Luxor today is a mixture of modern and old and is one of Egypt's most popular tourist destinations. Guidebooks describe it as the world's biggest open-air museum and we'll spend the next two days discovering it all.

After settling into our hotel and a quick shower, we're out in the street. One of the main attractions of Luxor is the temples in the village of Karnak a few kilometres north. The best way to get there is by hantour (a horse and carriage) and we stop one in the street outside the café. Our driver is Mohammed, a handsome Arab who plays loud Egyptian music from a tape deck along the way - adds to the atmosphere and we sing along.

The trip to Karnak is so pleasant as we clipclop our way through the warm afternoon sunshine. As we draw closer, we can see untold buses and thousands of tourists. This is the most we've seen anywhere in Egypt so far. The temple complex is huge, though, and after we all walk through the avenue of sphinxes everyone spreads out to explore the one and a half kilometre site. Inside is the main Temple of Amun which has its own Sacred Lake. Everything is on a grand scale here and so huge that it's almost impossible to get photos that can take it all in. We do get wonderful pictures inside the hypostyle hall of some of the one hundred and thirty four soaring stone pillars. This is the most spectacular of sights especially at this late time of day as the sun slants through the columns to create an almost surreal spectacle. Karnak is a magical experience.

Mohammed meets us in the hantour 'parking lot' and off we go again along the corniche back to Luxor. The music is especially groovy now and Mark and I sing and chairdance our way back to town. This is a wonderful afternoon. Mohammed drops us off at the Luxor Temple which is near the Old Winter Palace Hotel and our real destination. A bit 'monumented' out today so we'll maybe see the temple tomorrow. Now we're after a drink and something to eat. Apparently the thing to do is to sit on the terrace of the Winter Palace and watch the sun setting over the Nile. Can't think of anything nicer.

Firstly we walk through the hotel which is a romantic, Victorian beauty on the bank of the river. Inside is palace-like and so serene we feel we have to whisper and tiptoe around. We check out the huge and elaborate sitting room that has views of the gardens and I use the gorgeous old loo. A nice man in uniform tells us that we can't drink in the bar as Mark is wearing thongs so we go back to the terrace. A lady sitting at a table nearby comes to talk to us and asks if we're French - we wish! She must have missed the thongs. Nice to think we must look a bit sophisticated anyway. We drink beers and eat peanuts while we watch the sun setting across the Nile.

Dark now, we stop at an interesting ahwa for teas and a sheesha all for 5EP or $1.60 AUD. We forget to order a molasses sheesha and end up with tobacco which gives us both headspins.

Back at the hotel, we decide to have drinks on the rooftop café. We're the only ones here and we love it - it's a great find - very Egyptian and we lay around on floor cushions smoking grape sheeshas and drinking our duty free Bacardi and Jim Beam. Bob Marley music is playing from behind the bar so we're extra, extra happy. A great day and looking forward to an even better day tomorrow in the Valley of the Kings.