Thailand Hilltribe Trek

Thailand Hilltribe Trek

Day 1 Bangkok to Chiang Mai

Yesterday we caught the overnight train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai (13 hours) where we planned to head further northwest to visit some of Thailand’s amazing hilltribe villages. I slept badly on the top bunk (kept thinking I was going to fall out) and Mark didn't sleep at all on the bottom bunk (too big for the bed).

Day 2 Chiang Mai to Tham Lod village

At 7am we pulled into Chiang Mai’s train station then threw our backpacks into a local songthaew and drove to the bus station where we jumped on a local bus headed for Sappong. It had narrow seats and only fan-cooled but this was better than air-conditioning as we later needed the open windows for other purposes. Deafening Thai music entertained us the whole way. The bus was full of Thais and hilltribe people and the road was unbelievably steep and winding for four and a half hours.

After two hours we arrived at the small town of Pai then set off again for Sappong. The bus was now packed with hilltribe people in traditional dress and we needed to share seats. As soon as we started around the mountains again everyone was vomiting into plastic bags. Spew bags were flying past us out of the open windows and exploding on the road - wonderful!

At Sappong we were met by the women of the Lisu hilltribe in traditional dress of black, pink and yellow. They’d all been chewing beetle-nut and gave us huge red toothed smiles.

Another songthaew took us to Cave Lodge which is incredibly rustic with lots of cushions, low tables and woven wall hangings. It’s open on three sides and looks over a small valley overgrown with bamboo and bougainvillea. Mark and I had our own grass hut but shared cold showers and squat toilets.

After settling in we walked to Tham Lod Caves full of stalagmites and stalactites, ancient coffins, prehistoric paintings, steep bamboo ladders and bats. Three Thai ladies carrying old kerosene lanterns guided us through the caves - a wonderful atmosphere. After an hour of climbing we were led down to a stream deep within one of the caves. Here we jumped onto bamboo rafts till we came out at last through the huge mouth of the cave to the lovely greenery outside - a great adventure!

Day 3 First Day of Trek

The sun woke us early and after cold showers we sat on the verandah of our hut. So lovely sitting in the sun looking over the jungle of bamboo before us.

Now the trek. Carrying daypacks and all our water, we met Miss Doi, our guide, then set off at 9am. We walked next to a lovely stream where water buffalo were drinking and pigs were running past. We'd picked up two other guides by now - Puck and Charlie. The walking wasn't steep at first but we crossed the river about twenty times during the day. The pace was fast and it was unbelievably hot by now. Glad that we stopped every hour for a break or to lie fully clothed in the river - boots and all.

Lunch was rice wrapped in elephant leaves next to a shady stream. Puck fished with a stick while Doi and Charlie smoked bongs! We kept close to the stream again after lunch until we started the incredibly steep climb to the village. At last we could hear sounds of farm animals and we soon arrived at the Lahu hilltribe village. The huts are built on stilts on the side of a hill so the view was beautiful. There were lots of animals running around and under the huts - pigs, dogs, chooks and roosters.

At dusk we walked to the top of the village and watched the women sitting on the floor of their verandahs preparing their evening meals. Later we watched Doi and Puck prepare vegetables for our meal, which they cooked over the open fire. Slept on the hard floor of a family hut.

Day 4 Second Day of Trek

We didn’t sleep well because of all the animal noise. After breakfast we set off through the village. The whole day's walk was up and down steep hills and along narrow ridges - just kept going up and up. We stopped for lunch at the top of a ridge but we were too hot to eat. The guides smoked bongs again and we set off after a rest in the shade. So hot and no rivers today to cool us down. After more ridges we had a steep and slippery descent into a lovely leafy valley. It was worth it, though, as it was green and cool at the bottom and, best of all, there were the elephants! Down among the bamboo they were being watched over by men from the Karen hilltribe, all dressed in their traditional red woven tops. We climbed on and had an incredibly uncomfortable ride sitting in the baskets tied to the elephants' backs - worth every second, though, to think that we were actually riding an elephant in the hills of Thailand!

We came at last to the Karen village. Very beautiful and green with lots of crops growing around the village and fruit trees around the grass huts. Each hut was raised above the ground and each had its own yard closed in by bamboo fences. The Karen people looked beautiful in their red and black embroidered clothing that they weave themselves. The elephant took us right up to the family hut where we spent the night.

After settling in, we walked through the village to the river about twenty minutes away and laid around in the water for an hour - so lovely to be cool and surrounded by huge trees full of vines and lots of bamboo. Back at the hut we bought weavings from the ladies then dinner of vegetables and eggs eaten off a low wooden table in the candlelight.

A bad night - I had to get up three times for urgent toilet visits. This was my worst nightmare. Each time I had to find the torch and toilet paper, pick my way in the dark over sleeping bodies, find my boots under the hut, walk through the mud and 'go' in the horrid pit toilet behind the hut while trying not to make those awful 'toilet noises' - definitely not one of my best moments.

Day 5 Third Day of Trek and Chiang Mai

Woke early again and I wasn't feeling too good so I couldn't eat the porridge Doi had made for breakfast. We left the village early through a pretty river area crossing lots of creeks sometimes by walking across narrow branches but mainly walking straight through the water getting our boots soaked again. After lots of hills and walking through rice paddies, we came at last to a songthaew waiting to take us to Pai. Because I was sick, I sat in the front with Noan and her husband so I could see the road. The hour and a half drive to Pai was okay but when we got there we found that there was no bus running to Chiang Mai. This didn't seem to worry Noan and her husband who now had to drive us all the way to Chiang Mai.

It started to rain about half an hour later and we had to stop and put the canvas sides down. Mark said it was awful in the back because he couldn’t see the road and I felt so sick in the front with Noan kept fussing over me. She was really sweet and kept feeling my forehead and she put a blanket over me. I kept asking her how far it was to Chiang Mai but she would just give a big smile, hold up five fingers and say' Chiang Mai five'. I guess that was all the English she could speak so I just gave up. The five hours felt like ten with the heat, the rain, the winding road, feeling nauseous and on the verge of gastric the whole way - an ‘experience’ to say the least. Ecstatic to finally reach Chiang Mai at six o'clock.

Off south tomorrow and more Thailand adventures, but please no more ‘experiences’.

A Felucca on the Nile - Egypt

Day 1 Aswan

Today we're leaving Aswan on a felucca, one of the traditional, Egyptian boats with canvas sails that we've seen in all the travel brochures. We'll spend three glorious days sailing up the Nile to Luxor stopping at different monuments on the way and sleeping on the boat at night.

Mark and I are up early to have breakfast in the bazaar where we buy a few belly dancing scarves and drink tea with the owner of the stall. It's still early and most stalls are just opening. Through an open doorway we watch breadmakers cooking a'aish until they see us and invite us inside. There's lots of joking and laughing and as we leave they're stuffing warm bread inside Mark's backpack. It's covered in flour which means that the backpack is as well.

We're running late and race back to the hotel to shower and pack. At the river Jay Jay is there to meet us and introduce us to our Nubian boatmen - Dari and Mohammed. They're both gorgeous and so sweet. Our boat has a flat deck about ten feet square with a place about two foot high underneath for our bags. Thick mattresses covered in a colourful cloth cover the whole deck and pillows are lined up all around the sides. There's plenty of room for ten of us all to lie down and Mark and I pick good spots right up the front of the boat. We're very comfortable and it's heaven to lie here with a cloudless blue sky above.

As we pull out at 10.30 we watch beautiful Aswan slide by and then it's date palms, tiny houses and donkeys for the rest of the day. The boat tacks continually against the oncoming breeze so that it takes ages to get very far at all. All day we pass the huge cruise boats heading towards Aswan and feel glad that we're here on our little felucca. We pull in a few times for toilet stops which are always an adventure as we all try to find some privacy. No matter where you go you're always sure that someone, somewhere is getting an eyeful of your bare arse.

At one place we decide to find firewood for tonight. Mark and the other guys have a wonderful time doing the male thing of dragging dead branches off trees and even dismantling an old shed. Lunch happens on the go and Dari sails while Mohammed gets the food ready. They spread out an old plastic cloth and put the dishes in the centre while we all help ourselves. It's one of my favourite meals - tuna, pocket bread, tomato and fetta cheese followed by fruit and tea.

All afternoon we float slowly down the Nile while we listen to old Bob Marley tapes - so fitting and so perfect. It seems universal that the coolest places on earth still play Bob Marley. His music recalls nights in dark bars in Kathmandu, at beach bars in Bali and now a felucca cruise on the Nile.

As dark falls about six o'clock, Mark has a turn on the rudder. He looks wonderful with a gorgeous sunset over the water behind him. He loves this and it lets Dari and Mohammed get the food ready for tea. Dinner is a stewy thing of chopped sausages, tomatoes and onions with bread and is just as good as lunch. Afterwards Mark helps put the canvas roof and sides on the boat and we all put the toilet together on the bank. This involves digging a deep hole and putting up a canvas screen all around. Every time we get back on board, we have to wash our hands in disinfectant whether we've been to the loo or not. Glad to see very strict cleanliness rules on the boat and the guys keep it immaculate at all times.

After dinner we all start drinking. It's quite cool as the sun goes down but we feel very snug inside our canvas shelter. Some sit around the fire on the bank and some of us just lay around inside. We're incredibly cosy and warm under a mountain of blankets and all sleep surprisingly well.

Day 2 The Nile (on feluccas)

Mark and I wake before the others at seven o'clock, and after toilet visits and cleaning our teeth, we sit on the bank of the river. I make myself more presentable with a bit of makeup and combed hair. No need to look glamorous but also no need to look like a hag. Gradually the rest of the crew wakes and Mohammed and Dari take down the sides before starting breakfast. This morning we have pancakes, bananas, rolls, jam and cheese.

Anyway, glad to set sail early. It's warmer on the river today and we spend a few pleasant hours making our way north. Later we stop on the east bank where a jeep is waiting to take us to Daraw and the local camel market. At Daraw village we get out at the busy outdoor marketplace. This is thriving and reminds us of India. We dodge donkey-drawn carts laden with vegetables and people riding bareback on donkeys. Mark and I buy a big bag of strawberries to share while we pick up lots of other fresh vegies for the boat. I get the best buy of the trip from a pretty young girl who sells me a brown and cream rug for 22EP. A further ten minutes drive takes us to the camel market. Although there's still lots of camels in pens, the selling is over for the day.

Instead of driving back to the felucca, we drive for about an hour north to the town of Kom Ombo. Here we'll pick up the boat after visiting the famous Temple of Kom Ombo. The temple sits impressively on a bend on the east bank of the Nile where it looks out over the waters. It has an interesting hypostyle hall and some mummified crocodiles.

Outside we walk along the river to where the felucca is moored up to a grassy bank about a kilometre away. Mark and I stop at two cafes to use the toilets but they're unbelievably filthy. None of them flush but have obviously still been used for more than just number ones, if you get the picture. Think we'll hold on.

While we wait for everyone to get back to the boat, some kids wade out to try to sell us the inevitable beaded necklaces and bracelets. Incredible how cheap they'll go down to when you don't want them. The sun is hot by now so it's good to get back out into the middle of the river where we can catch the breeze. Lunch today is spaghetti, a tomato and onion dish, pita bread and oranges.

There's untold donkeys around here and one is going ape-shit try to rape all the girl donkeys. A guy is chasing it with a stick and screaming his head off while the donkey is running in circles and screaming it's head off - hilarious. The rest of the afternoon is spent reading and snoozing as we sail on towards Luxor. On dusk we stop to collect firewood then sail for an hour after the sun has set. This is incredibly beautiful and peaceful and my favourite part of the boat trip so far.

Setting up for the night is quicker today as Mark and the other guys help Dari tie up the sails and put the roof and sides on. The toilet is erected on the bank while Mohammed cooks dinner - vegetable soup, vegetable stew, bread and more oranges. Tonight we drink lots of alcohol and lie around telling conundrums for hours. A really good day rounded off with a great evening. Another warm, comfortable night on board.

Day 3 Nile to Edfu to Luxor

Like yesterday, Mark and I are the first to wake up and we enjoy a peaceful hour sitting on the bank. Lots of agriculture around here and, of course, lots of donkeys. Mark says 'there's a line-up at the dunny' and there's three of them checking it out. Mohammed has lathered up for a wash on the grass and he's covered in white suds from head to toe. Dari is cleaning the boat as usual and by eight o'clock everyone is up and ready to go. Breakfast is cooked while we slowly tack to the opposite bank. Mark takes the rudder and, I know, would love to be there all day. I think he's had enough relaxing and we both can't wait to get to Luxor this afternoon. This morning we have pancakes again with eggs, bread, bananas and oranges. Every meal has been just right.

Today is warm and not much breeze so it's nice out on the river. After a couple of hours, we pull into the west bank where we say a final goodbye to Dari and Mohammed and our felucca. It's been a memorable few days and we're so glad we opted to travel down the Nile this traditional way.

We've stopped at the edge of a small village and a van is waiting to take us to Edfu. A nearby open-air ahwa looks wonderful and the men are smiling and all want their photos taken - no baksheesh either. I like it here and wish we could stay. For the next hour an a half we drive through lush, palm-filled villages along the Nile then scorched, barren land further inland. We love it all.

At Edfu we drive straight to the wonderfully preserved Temple of Horus. Outside is a tourist bazaar but we don't have time to hang out here as we have to leave in a convoy at 11.30am. The temple was built over a period of two hundred years and finally completed in 57BC by Cleopatra's father, Ptolemy XII. The entrance though the thirty-six metre high pylons is especially impressive and inside are two hypostyle halls, an offering chamber and the great court. We feel dwarfed by the massive columns in the hypostyle halls which I think are the most stunning parts of all the Egyptian temples.

It's time to go and we set off in a convoy of about half a dozen buses and vans. For security reasons, tourists aren't allowed to go wandering around out here on their own so police escorts lead convoys across the desert each day. It's another interesting hour and a half to the town of Luxor which sits on the East Bank of the Nile. Once the ancient city of Thebes, Luxor today is a mixture of modern and old and is one of Egypt's most popular tourist destinations. Guidebooks describe it as the world's biggest open-air museum and we'll spend the next two days discovering it all.

After settling into our hotel and a quick shower, we're out in the street. One of the main attractions of Luxor is the temples in the village of Karnak a few kilometres north. The best way to get there is by hantour (a horse and carriage) and we stop one in the street outside the café. Our driver is Mohammed, a handsome Arab who plays loud Egyptian music from a tape deck along the way - adds to the atmosphere and we sing along.

The trip to Karnak is so pleasant as we clipclop our way through the warm afternoon sunshine. As we draw closer, we can see untold buses and thousands of tourists. This is the most we've seen anywhere in Egypt so far. The temple complex is huge, though, and after we all walk through the avenue of sphinxes everyone spreads out to explore the one and a half kilometre site. Inside is the main Temple of Amun which has its own Sacred Lake. Everything is on a grand scale here and so huge that it's almost impossible to get photos that can take it all in. We do get wonderful pictures inside the hypostyle hall of some of the one hundred and thirty four soaring stone pillars. This is the most spectacular of sights especially at this late time of day as the sun slants through the columns to create an almost surreal spectacle. Karnak is a magical experience.

Mohammed meets us in the hantour 'parking lot' and off we go again along the corniche back to Luxor. The music is especially groovy now and Mark and I sing and chairdance our way back to town. This is a wonderful afternoon. Mohammed drops us off at the Luxor Temple which is near the Old Winter Palace Hotel and our real destination. A bit 'monumented' out today so we'll maybe see the temple tomorrow. Now we're after a drink and something to eat. Apparently the thing to do is to sit on the terrace of the Winter Palace and watch the sun setting over the Nile. Can't think of anything nicer.

Firstly we walk through the hotel which is a romantic, Victorian beauty on the bank of the river. Inside is palace-like and so serene we feel we have to whisper and tiptoe around. We check out the huge and elaborate sitting room that has views of the gardens and I use the gorgeous old loo. A nice man in uniform tells us that we can't drink in the bar as Mark is wearing thongs so we go back to the terrace. A lady sitting at a table nearby comes to talk to us and asks if we're French - we wish! She must have missed the thongs. Nice to think we must look a bit sophisticated anyway. We drink beers and eat peanuts while we watch the sun setting across the Nile.

Dark now, we stop at an interesting ahwa for teas and a sheesha all for 5EP or $1.60 AUD. We forget to order a molasses sheesha and end up with tobacco which gives us both headspins.

Back at the hotel, we decide to have drinks on the rooftop café. We're the only ones here and we love it - it's a great find - very Egyptian and we lay around on floor cushions smoking grape sheeshas and drinking our duty free Bacardi and Jim Beam. Bob Marley music is playing from behind the bar so we're extra, extra happy. A great day and looking forward to an even better day tomorrow in the Valley of the Kings.

Samoa

Samoa

Day 1

Arrived on Polynesian Airlines at 11.30pm. A small band welcomed us with ukuleles, guitars and beautiful happy singing.

Day 2

We decided to walk to Maketi Fou which is the main central market next to the bus station and sells all kinds of fruit and vegetables. Fat smiling ladies sat at low tables covered with tomatoes, egg plant, bok choy, bread fruit and herbs. Music came from all directions - a lovely, happy place.

From here we walked along Main Beach Road. Big colorful buses flew past us with funny names painted on their side like Princess Nora and Queen Maggie. Past the Clock Tower we stopped for a coke at Sails Restaurant.

From Sails we walked to Aggie Grey’s Hotel further around the waters edge. Aggie’s is classed as one of the ‘Most Famous Hotels in the World’ and named after the daughter of an English immigrant and a Samoan woman. She started the hotel in the 1940’s and it’s now an upmarket, high class place. Crossing the bridge over the Vaisigano River, we found the Pasefika Inn which I fell in love with.

From here we caught a taxi to Seipepa Fales - off the road, a narrow dirt track led past a few village houses and fales to an overgrown gateway. Chickens were running around and the usual dogs and cats lying about. About ten cute fales are scattered among the shrubs and palms and we booked in for the next day.

From here we caught a taxi out on the main road to take us back to Pasefika Inn. Ben was our driver and we struck up a friendship with him from the start. We decided to have lunch and then get him to take us out to Papasee’a Sliding Rock.

At one o’clock Ben was waiting at the door. Because we were a bit late he decided we we’d been having ‘jiggy jiggy’.

Papasee’a is only fifteen minutes out of Apia through pretty villages and green, green countryside. Ben happily continued on with the jiggy jiggy thing and told us that his wife only ever wants to make love in the morning. All this is described with raucous laughter so it was a fun trip to the Rock. Two hundred steps down to the waterfall we find rock pools and the main rock. This is a five metre slide from the top of a waterfall into a small deep pool at the bottom – a thrilling ride.

Before dinner we set off for Aggie Grey’s for Happy Hour cocktails - strawberry daiquiris at the Kionasina Bar – then onto Sails Restaurant. Here we orderede the very expensive seafood platter while sitting on the balcony overlooking the port. The air was still and warm as we ate by candlelight – very romantic.

Day 3

At 6.30am we woke to another gorgeous day. From our bed we could see the sun rising above the palm trees through the glass slats of our window. Smoke hung in the still air as people prepared for their Sunday umu.

At 9.30 we walk to the Presbyterian Church near Aggie Grey’s. Inside was packed with locals who looked trapped in another century. Most of the ladies were in white and all wearing straw hats and fanning themselves with woven hand fans. Even the minister was dressed in a white suit and a red tie – a big enthusiastic man with stacks of charisma The best part, though, was the choir - sung in the Samoan language, - incredibly beautiful.

Later we snorkelled at Palalo Deep Marine Reserve. We swam out across the shallows of the reef till the bottom dropped away into a deep blue hole filled with fish and purple and orange coral. We saw schools of fish in the most amazing colours like luminous yellow and electric blue. After half an hour we laid around near the shore floating in the warm shallows.

Back at Seipepa we settled into our fale. It was on tall stilts so that we felt like we were living in a beautiful tree house surrounded by thick gardens - below us were two family graves.

Day 4

Another gorgeous morning and the roosters were still crowing as they had all night. After cold showers we had breakfast in the grandparent’s house. We sat cross legged for a breakfast of bread, hard boiled eggs, coconut, pawpaw and tomato .

At 9.30am a taxi took us to the bus station near the Flea Market. We asked someone which was the bus to Lalomanu. The one that was there was apparently the two o’clock bus and the ten o’clock bus would come later (what the?).

The ten o’clock Lalomanu bus arrived but already looks full to bursting. Finally here it comes in all its bright yellow and pink glory with music blaring and overflowing with passengers. We squashed in with everyone happily nursing someone else.

After we crossed the mountainous interior we arrived at Tafua Fales on the edge of Lalomanu village. We’re met by Tai and Sili, a husband and wife team who own Tafua. They’re both larger than life in dimensions and personality. They give us the rundown on meals and snorkeling then show us to our fale right on the sand facing the water – a million dollar view of calm blue water, white sand and palm trees.

After lunch of fresh fish and salad, we snorkeled, swam, slept then sat on the café verandah for sunset drinks. . Dinner is at a long communal table decorated with fresh flowers. Samoan music is playing which is nice except it’s the same CD over and over – maybe they only have one.

Drift off to sleep to the sound of the surf out on the reef and the tiniest of waves on the shore.

Day 5

Spent the morning snorkeling again then wandered around to Lalomanu village in the afternnoon. A fantastic tropical feast for dinner then bed at ten o’clock ready for an early start in the morning.

Day 6

At 6.30am we wait out on the road for the bus back to Apia.I sit on Mark’s knee and most people are nursing someone else. After two hours the sun is out and we’re back in Apia. We ring Leota , the owner of Sunset View Fales on Manono Island. He promised to send a boat to pick us up.

A taxi driver called Bati drove us to the ferry wharf at the west end of the island.The boat is actually a small launch and we have a driver, the driver’s friend and another man. The weather is perfect now The water is a brilliant aqua blue and very calm. Sunset View Fales around the south western side of the island.

From the water we can see Leota waiting for us at the end of the jetty. He’s a big smiling man with graying hair and kind eyes. He’s wearing a bright blue shirt covered in palm tress and a brown lavalava. Behind him is a yellow and blue painted fale with tiny thatched fales on either side. He helps us off the boat then takes us to sit in his fale. We’re the only guests so apparently there’s no rush but after a while he shows us to our fale

After a read on the bed we meet Leota at the boat. The boat is very basic and the snorkeling gear consists of one snorkel and goggles, one pair of swimming goggles and one pair of flippers that don’t fit either of us. We set off for the eastern side of Manono Island where we can see the small volcanic Apolima Island and the large island of Savai’i in the distance behind it. Leota steers us towards the reef then makes anchor for us to climb overboard.

Before dinner, we have cold showers in the little wooden shack out the back. Leota’s wife, Sau, and her sister are cooking in the kitchen. I ask if I can help but they scream laughing at the thought of it.

Meanwhile Sili has brought out his guitar and a ukulele made from a tin can and a piece of wood. He sings sweet Samoan songs then all have dinner tohether.

Day 7

Manono Island has no dogs or vehicles of any kind (not even bicycles) so the only sound we can hear is the soft lapping of the water almost beneath us. At 7.30am, Sau makes us breakfast

We set off at eight o’clock going clockwise around the island. We see family graves, churches, beautiful white sandy coves and picture perfect fales that everyone here lives in. The island is apparently semi-subsistence and probably as close as you could get to basic Polynesian life.

Back at Sunset View, we boarded the launch to take us back to ‘Upolu where we caught the car ferry to the island of Savai’i. Another wonderful local bus ride took us up the coast to Tanu Fales where we chose another fale on the beach.

We watched a tattooist giving a young guy an armband tattoo. He dipped a metal comb with needle-sharp teeth and a pig’s tusk in a bowl of ink then tapped it into his skin.

That night we watched a traditional fiafia dance – it’s a mixture of joyous dancing and singing accompanied by traditional instruments.

The loveliest part was the slow sensual siva dance – beautiful hand movements and slow shuffling feet. Wonderful Samoan music engulfed us all - so magical – I thought my heart would burst.

Day 8

We woke at 7.30am to another gorgeous sunny day.

After breakfast we walked along the beach with our packs on till we come to Jane’s Fales shaded by coconut palms.

Day 9

Hot and sunny again. Got a bus back down the coast to the lovely Safua Hotel set in lush flowering gardens. It’s owned by Moelagi Jackson, the apparent ‘queen of Savai’i’.

At lunch we met Warren Jopling. He’s seventy five, Australian and has lived here at Safua for the last thirteen years. Once a geologist, he organized to take us on an island tour tomorrow – excellent!

Had dinner with Warren and Moelagi.

Day 10

This morning we woke early as today is Sunday and ‘umu’ day. We watched Moelagi’s son do all the preparation which took hours - taro, coconut, pork, fish and vegetables all cooked on hot stones.

After lunch we spent the rest of the day touring the island with Warren – waterfalls, family homes, the Alafaaga Blowholes and churches. A banquet dinner with Warren and Moelagi then her brother and four young men sang and played for us. They had two guitars, spoons, a piece of wood hit with a rock, a wooden pole with a long string attached to it and the bongos.

Finally bed at 9.30pm – an amazing day.

Sabah, Borneo

Sabah, Borneo

Day 1 Kota Kinabalu

Arrived in Kota Kinabalu in Sabah! We hung out at the local markets then booked bus tickets to Poring Springs. We had an early night after splurging on dinner and cocktails – roughed it from here on.

Day 2 Kota Kinabalu to Poring Springs

Up at 7am and in a taxi to the bus station. Then under beautiful blue skies we pulled out at 7.30am and headed north towards Mount Kinabalu. We passed a huge mosque out of town and then open countryside with a few small villages now and again.

For an hour the road twisted and climbed towards Mount Kinabalu which we could see looming in the distance. It’s the highest mountain in South East Asia and to climb it is one of Sabah’s attractions. Frankly I’d rather stick pins in my eyes, give birth to a chair, eat my own arse off etc. So while others jumped off at the turnoff to the mountain, Mark and I smugly sailed past sitting on our lazy arses. The road continued to wind and twist which made Mark sick – he’s never good on mountainous roads.

After three hours we finally arrived at Ranau which is the closest town to Poring Springs. We were the only ones to get off and had no idea where to go. From the highway we walked into town where we met a young guy who rang his brother at Poring Springs to come and get us. After half an hour he arrived in an old van and we headed out of town past a busy, colourful market down on the riverbank.

The nineteen kilometers to Poring Springs was lovely - lush and green. Half an hour later we arrived at the tiny village opposite the national park. Leaving our backpacks at the gate we couldn’t wait to see the springs.

Getting there was just gorgeous – across a bridge over a fast running stream then a walk through the rainforest. There are about six different ponds, some hot and sulphurous natural springs and others cold water. The setting is very pretty especially with the Rainforest Cafe set amongst the trees.

One of the must-do things in the park is the ‘canopy walk’. It’s much further than it looks on the map and it was a long strenuous walk halfway up a bloody mountain. Three long walkways are suspended from the trees way, way above the jungle floor. The whole thing sways and creaks and even though I hate heights I was determined to do it. I was glad to see a lot of other terrified faces though.

At last at the bottom we ordered food and drinks at the Rainforest Café then decided to look for somewhere to stay. Just across from the park gate was a small shack-like house with a room attached. The house belongs to Jonah and his family while the room next is called Ernah Lodge on a hand painted sign at the front. We asked at the café next door and someone ran off to find Jonah. He’s a friendly little man and very excited about renting the room. He proudly showed us inside and we were surprised to find that we had two bedrooms, a tiny bathroom lined with corrugated iron and a cement floor as well as a small sitting room with a tiny lounge, tables and chairs and a television. The furnishings were basic bits and pieces and we loved it.

Also attached to the Lodge is a small massage room where Jonah’s wife works. He became excited again when we told him we’d both like a massage – they obviously don’t do too much business. Mark had a massage first then we had a swim back over in the park in the pretty, coldwater pool – so nice to cool down from the heat and humidity which had kept us wet with sweat all day.

Back outside the park everyone was calling out ‘happy new year’ – a big thing here apparently. In one of the market stalls we noticed hundreds of handmade ornaments of the Rafflesia flower. This is supposedly the biggest flower in the world and only flowers for a few days a year. I asked the stall lady about it and she said “you want to see?”. Incredibly it was in flower now and she ran off to find someone to take us there. In minutes the tiniest lady imaginable led us up the road to the top of the hill. She was barefoot and looked eighty but we could barely keep up with her. Around a bend she took us to a family sitting in a grass and bamboo shelter and handed us over to a little boy who took us into the forest. Up and down muddy tracks, across a tiny stream we at last came to the Rafflesia deep in the forest. It’s a reddy brown colour and about eighteen inches across. This was amazing and we felt very David Attenbouroughish.

On dark we were ready for our New Year’s Eve in Poring Springs. We walked over to the Rainforest Café in the park where we’d booked a table for dinner. We shouldn’t have bothered as we were the only ones there except for a table of European scientists who ate and ran. A tiny bat did laps of the café and we could hear forest noises all around us – beautiful!

At 9.30pm we headed back to the Lodge while the locals called out ‘happy New Year’ and a group of teenage boys in a ute drove up and down the street – great excitement in Poring Springs. I couldn’t keep awake till midnight but Mark stayed up to see in the New Year – Happy New Year, my darling!

Day 2 Poring Springs to Sepilok

New Years Day. At 8am we had breakfast back at the Rainforest Café then, after a swim, set off with Jonah and his wife for Ranau. The bus arrived at 9.50am and we were soon speeding east.

After three hours we arrived at Sepilok. Again we were dropped off on the highway and again we weren’t sure where to go. A track off the road had a few cars with touts waiting so we crossed over to get a lift to the hotels. There are only a couple of places to stay and we quickly decided on the Jungle Resort. It’s an inexpensive place in a beautiful jungle setting and built around large ponds.

For lunch we hung out in the Banana Café at a table next to the pond. The gardens around the pond have flowering plants and huge fan shaped palms. At the desk we booked a Guided Night Jungle Walk inside the Orangutan Centre. By then thick clouds had come over and the rain was pouring down like only tropical rain can do. It was quite lovely really and a good excuse to have an afternoon nap.

At 7pm we were ready for our jungle walk. The rain had stopped and, in pitch darkness, we followed a young girl along a muddy track. At the Centre we met the ranger who asked us ‘you have torches?’ Of course we didn’t because no-one told us to bring one. This meant we had one torch between the three of us – brilliant.

For the next hour we very slowly walked through the forest while our poor guide tried to find anything even mildly interesting. In total we saw two millipedes, one bird and a snake curled up asleep in a tree – a bit of a letdown but a nice experience anyway.

Day 3 Sepilok

We woke at 8am for showers and breakfast at the Banana Café. I kept seeing an interesting looking old lady who always seemed to have people come up to talk to her and decided to get to know her before we leave.

Then it was time for the orangutans! After breakfast we walked over to the Orangutan Centre where we followed a crowd up and down long wooden walkways till we reached the feeding platform about ten minutes later. While we waited for the orangutans to appear, lots of small monkeys and a bigger pig-faced monkey turned up to pinch some of the free food. The feeder eventually climbed the platform with a bucket of bananas and sugar cane. The excitement built and everyone had their eyes fixed on the jungle.

Soon we could see some branches moving and then they appeared. It’s an incredible sight. About fifteen orangutans turned up for the feeding. No-one scrambled for food – all very orderly really. They all arrived by swinging along ropes set up in the trees and attached to the platform. The humidity in the jungle must be about one hundred and fifty percent – so bad that the inside of our camera fogged up and my hair looked like I just had a perm.

At three o’clock we went back for the afternoon feeding. Although the sun was shining again after a short downpour, the humidity was so much worse. The feeding platform and jungle around was almost hidden by the steam.

At six o’clock we were back at the Banana Café for drinks and dinner. I spied the old lady again and made plans to have breakfast with her the next morning. Her name is Francine Neago, and she said in a very French accent ‘you want to talk about orangutans?”

Day 4 Sepilok to Sandakan

At 8am we met Francine in the café. We talked for an hour and found she’s one of the most interesting people we’ve ever met. I don’t know exactly how old she is but she looks at least eighty (sorry Francine if you’re younger). She’s a scientist trying to set up a school here to teach people about orangutans and about their survival. She told us about the corruption at the Orangutan Centre and how there soon won’t be enough primary jungle left for the orangutans because the government is destroying it to plant palm oil trees. Soon there will only be secondary forest left and even that might be under threat. She’s an expert on orangutans and has even taught one to ‘speak’ using a computer in the USA. Once she lived in a cage with orangutans for six months so she could study them and when she lived in Sumatra she had a full grown pet alligator that lived under her kitchen table. Actually she’s definitely the most interesting person we’ve ever met!

After breakfast we left Sepilok for a few days in Sandakan before flying back to Kuala Lumpur for the next part of our Malaysia trip.